DOI: 10.3986/Traditio2015440306
(PDF )

Naslov The fine and the tasteless; Istrian culinary experts and taste

Avtorica/Author Daša Ličen
 
Izvleček
V tem članku na podlagi Bourdieujevega dela o odnosu med hrano, potrošnjo in kulturno identiteto interpretiram, kako je znanje istrskih kulinaričnih ekspertov ustvarjeno in postavljeno kot oblika kulturnega kapitala. Poznavanje istrske kuhinje je kulturni kapital, ki ga moji raziskovalni partnerji v veliki meri posedujejo in podeljujejo drugim posameznikom in dobrinam, ki posledično pridobijo višjo vrednosti. Kljub temu, da eksperti predstavljajo precej enovito skupino, pa poleg opisovanja virov njihovega kulturnega kapitala razpravljam o njihovi notranjih delitvah in preprašujem njihovo načelno inkluzivnost.

Abstract 
The interpretation in this article draws upon Bourdieu’s work on the relationship between food, consumption, and cultural identity to show how Istrian culinary experts’ knowledge is constructed and established as a form of cultural capital. Expertise in Istrian cuisine is a form of cultural capital that my research partners possess to a great extent and entrust to other people and goods, which subsequently gain a higher value. The experts are a rather coherent group; however, in addition to describing the sources of their cultural capital, I discuss their internal divisions and question their inclusivist stance.

Ključne besede: okus, Istra, eksperti, hrana, kulturni kapital.

Keywords: taste, Istria, experts, food, cultural capital.

Viri/References

Ankeny, Rachel. 2006. The Rise of Molecular Gastronomy and Its Problematic Use of Science as an Authenticating Authority. In: Richard Hosking (ed.), Authenticity in the Kitchen: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2005. Devon: Prospect Books, 44–52.
Appadurai, Arjun. 1988. How to Make a National Cuisine in Contemporary India. Comparative Studies in Society and History 30 (1): 3–24.
Ashley, Bob et al. 2004. Food and Cultural Studies. London: Routledge.
Bajič, Blaž. 2014. Running as Nature Intended: Barefoot Running as Enskillment and a Way of Becoming. Anthropological Notebooks 20 (2): 5–26.
Billiard, Elise. 2006. When Tradition Becomes Trendy: Social Distinction in Maltese Food Culture. Anthropological Notebooks 12 (1): 113–126.
Bochner, Arthur P. 2014. Coming to Narrative. Walnut Creek: Left Coast Press.
Boorstin, J. Daniel. 1992. The Image: A Guide to Pseudo-Events in America. New York: Vintage Books.
Bourdieu, Pierre. 1984 (1979). Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of Taste. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.
Caplan, Pat et al. 1998. Studying Food Choice in its Social and Cultural Contexts: Approaches from a Social Anthropological Perspective. In: Anne Murcott (ed.), The Nation’s Diet: The Social Science of Food Choice. Harlow: Longman, 168–182.
Demossier, Marion. 2011. Beyond Terroir: Territorial Construction, Hegemonic Discourses, and French Wine Culture. Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute 17: 685–705.
Di Giovine, Michael. 2014. The Everyday as Extraordinary: Revitalization, Religion, and the Elevation of the Cucina Casareccia to Heritage Cuisine in Pietrelcina, Italy. In: Ronda L. Brulotte and Michael A. Di Giovine (eds.), Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage. Farnham: Ashgate, 77–92.
Dirks, B. Nicholas, et al. 1994. Culture / Power / History: A Reader in Contemporary Social Theory. Princeton: Princeton University Press.
Eriksen, Thomas Hylland. 2010. Small Places, Large Issues: An Introduction to Social and Cultural Anthropology. London: Pluto Press.
Featherstone, Mike. 1991. Consumer Culture and Postmodernism. London: Sage.
Flandrin, Jean-Louis. 1986. La distinction par le golit. In: Philippe Aries and Roger Chartier (eds.), Histoire de la vie privee, vol. 3: De la Renaissance aux Lumieres. Paris: Seuil, 267–309.
Godina Golija, Maja. 1996. Prehrana v Mariboru v dvajsetih in tridesetih letih 20. stoletja. Maribor: Obzorja.
Godina Golija, Maja. 2012. Contemporary Appropriations of Tradition in Slovenia. Traditiones 41 (2): 91–104.
Johnston, Jose and Slyon Baumann. 2007. Democracy versus Distinction: A Study of Omnivorousness in Gourmet Food Writing. American Journal of Sociology 113 (1): 165-204.
Kravanja, Boštjan. 2014. Med plesnim studiem in družabnim plesiščem: O solidarnosti in praksah vzajemnosti v svingerskih plesnih skupnostih. Ars & Humanitas 8 (1): 58–78.
Lupton, Deborah. 1996. Food, the Body and the Self. London: Sage.
Marcus, George. 1983. “Elite” as a Concept, Theory, and Research Tradition. In: George Marcus (ed.), Elites: Ethnographic Issues. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 7–27.
Meršak, Kristina. 2013. “Po zdravi pameti“: Analiza družbenospolnih, razrednih in nacionalnih reprezentacij v oddaji Ljubezen skozi želodec. Časopis za kritiko znanosti, domišljijo in novo antropologijo 255: 78–86.
Miele, Mara and Jonathan Murdoch. 2003. Fast Food / Slow Food: Standardizing and Differentiating Cultures of Food. In: Reidar Almas and Geoffrey Lawrence (eds.), Globalization, Localization and Sustainable Livelihoods. Basingstoke: Ashgate, 25–41.
Miller, William Ian. 2006. Anatomija gnusa. Ljubljana: Studia Humanitatis.
Mintz, Sidney and Christine Du Bois. 2002. The Anthropology of Food and Eating. Annual Review of Anthropology 31: 99–119.
Montanari, Massimo. 2006 (2004). Food is Culture. New York: Columbia University Press.
Muršič, Rajko. 2013. Pomembneži v Sloveniji: Velmožje in zvezde v slovenski znanosti in popularni glasbi. In: Božidar Jezernik et al. (eds.), Heroji in slavne osebnosti na Slovenskem. Ljubljana: Znanstvena založba Filozofske fakultete, 137–149.
Podjed, Dan. 2011. Opazovanje opazovalcev. Ljubljana: Znanstvena založba Filozofske fakultete.
Sammells, Clare A. 2014. Haute Traditional Cuisines: How UNESCO’s List of Intangible Heritage Links the Cosmopolitan to the Local. In: Ronda L. Brulotte and Michael A. Di Giovine (eds.), Edible Identities: Food as Cultural Heritage. Farnham: Ashgate, 141–158.
Veblen, Thorstein. 1994. A Theory of the Leisure Class. New York: Dover Publications.
Wilk, Richard. 1997. A Critique of Desire: Distaste and Dislike in Consumer Behaviour. Consumption Markets and Culture 1 (2): 175–196.